Overview and food allowances:(see Overview:)
Cost for Trip
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Description of Costs
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Cost with tax in Cdn dollars for 2
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NZ Dollars with tax
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Airport Fees
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$20.00
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$10 Cdn each airport improvement at Victoria
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Flight with Air NZ* with taxes (2)
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$4,643.62
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Vancouver/Victoria/LA/Auckland/ Hawaii (layover)/ Vancouver/Victoria
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Departure Tax
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$45.00
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$50 (2)
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Transportation
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$1,833.25
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$2,035 Auckland / Auckland with taxes & insurance with Budget
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Gas
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$317.00
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$0.95 a litre @ 5840 kms = $352
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Accommodation
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$1,814.00
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$2,016 websites include 12.5% GST
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Parking
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$13.50
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vehicle storage at Bluff, $15 NZ 3-days (free at Gulf Harbour)
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Food
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$1,100.00
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allowing $25 each a day = $1,250
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Ferries
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$383.00
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all 2 persons return: T.M. $50; N-S Island $208; Stuart Island $168 ($426 NZ)
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Tours
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$606.00
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(3) Kaikoura pelagic $180; (2) kiwi $140; $16 (2) Mt. Bruce; $60 (2) penguins, Taiaroa Head free; (2) King Shags $ 153; (2) Karori WS $12; $120 (2) Star Trek Charter ($681 NZ) + others if needed
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TOTAL
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$10,755.37
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Prices as of January, 2004
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New Zealand Itinerary
Days 1-3: Victoria to Auckland Airport
Logistics: Take flight AC 8064 from Victoria at 12:30 pm to Vancouver for 4:15 pm flight on Air Canada / NZ 4782 arriving in L.A. at 7:03 pm (Terminal 2) & departing L.A. at 9:45 pm (Terminal 2) on NZ flight 5, arriving in Auckland at 7:30 am on the first Tuesday in November. Note: As the ferry to Tiritiri Matangi leaves only on Thursday, Friday, Saturday, & Sunday it would be best to plan on arriving at Auckland Airport early on a Tuesday which requires leaving Vancouver on a Sunday ( day lost crossing the International Dateline).
Day 1: in New Zealand: Auckland Airport to Waipu Cove / Trounson Kauri Park
Driving Distance: From the airport to Waipu Cove is 145 kms (1 1/2 hrs); to Helena Bay is 82 kms (1 hour); to Trounson Kauri Park is 135 kms (1 1/2 hrs).
Logistics & Sightseeing: After picking up your Budget rental, drive north on Hwy 1 to Waipu for Fairy Tern. As the drive is through Auckland, wait until rush hour is over. Drive from Waipu to the river mouth and turn onto Johnsons Point Road to its end and park. Walk across the river in a southerly direction (at low tide) to nesting birds within the fenced area. Then continue north on Hwy 1, 23 kms past Whangarei, turning east (right) past Hikurangi where the sign points to Russel. Proceed to Helena Bay, turning right to Teal Bay, and after Teal Bay, stop at the Owae Stream and search from the road. If unsuccessful, travel further to Mimiwhangata Farm Park and walk the track to Trig Point where lakes have good populations of Brown Teal. Return through Whangarei and drive west on Hwy 14 to Dargaville, hence north on Hwy 12 along the west coast. Turn right onto Trounson Park Road just beyond Kaihu, arriving late in the afternoon at the Kauri Coast Holiday Park. Take the wide board walks from the Holiday Park into Trounson Kauri Park's forest with your tape and flashlight for N.I. Brown Kiwi (80% chance of seeing).
Night at Kauri Coast Holiday Park
Day 2: Trounson Kauri Park to Whangaparaoa
Driving Distance: from Trounson Kauri Park to Whangaparaoa is 165 kms (2 hours).
Logistics & Sightseeing: Book the Bayview Manly B &B for the second night of your arrival to New Zealand and the night that you return from Tiritiri Matangi. The Bayview is just 5 minutes drive from Gulf Harbour and the proprietors will take you. Leave the motorway at the Silverdale off-ramp onto Hwy 1- hence Whangaparaoa Road- and drive for 15 minutes to the Manly traffic circle ( Gulf Harbour is well signed to the right). The B&B is just to the left of this circle on Beach Road which soon ends at Big Manly Beach. Shops and beautiful parks are nearby. Get groceries for Tiritiri Matangi and visit Shakespear Regional Park for Wild Turkey, Common Peafowl, Eastern Rosella, New Caledonian Parakeet, and New Zealand Dotterel on the beach etc.
Night at Bayview Manly B&B
Days 3-4: Whangaparaoa & Tiritiri Matangi
Logistics: Stay on Tiritiri Matangi would be from 10 am (overnighting) until departing 3:30 pm the next day, returning from the island to the Bayview Manly B&B for the night at about 5pm. You get to the island via Fuller's Gulf Island Ferries. Catch the ferry from Whangaparaoa's Gulf Island Marina (pier Z) where there is free unguarded parking. The Bayview Manly B&B will store your car. For those staying at the motel in Orewa it is a 12 km drive. The ferry leaves here at 9:45 am Thursday through Sunday for $25 return and it takes 20 minutes to reach the island with 150 people allowed each day, but you must stay here overnight if you wish to see the Little Spotted Kiwi. Accommodations are in a pleasent self-contained bunkhouse with hot water showers and kitchen. This must be booked well-in-advance especially for weekends. You must also bring your food in rodent-proof containers and a flashlight. Complimentary coffee & tea and cold drinks may be bought at the gift shop. They take Visa. Bird books and guides for sale (see Materials:).
Birds & Sightseeing: Two endemic New Zealand families occur on the island- Kiwis and New Zealand Wattlebirds- which will be seen or heard before departure. Two extinct species on the mainland are only found here, Stitchbird and Saddleback, the latter of the endemic wattlebird family, both are well established. Several species are introduced such as Takahe, Kokako, and Little Spotted Kiwi. There are ten Kokako, one of which occurs near the stitchbird feeders, others are heard near the lighthouse, Ridge Trail and bath, and one near wharf end of Wattle Track where the trail crosses the main road. There is a small pond near the wharf along the main road with a reliable Spotless Crake and probable Brown Teal. Fernbird are found in the bracken on the main road just beyond the wharf pond as you walk uphill. Other sites for the 4 Brown Teal (October 2003) are: Pumphouse Dam (take the short trail from the bunkhouse); the lighthouse and dock at night; Pohotakawa Dam and Fisherman's Bay Dam. Little Spotted Kiwi occur nightly along the Wattle Trail, near the lighthouse, and the bunkhouse. Always run toward a calling bird (no tapes allowed) and the bird will freeze - rather than approaching slowly as it will run for cover. The kiwis are seen especially along the generator trail near the horticultural nursery. Others include Little Blue Penguin which nest in man-made burrows, New Zealand Pigeon, New Zealand Bellbird, New Zealand Robin, Whitehead, New Caledonian Parakeet, Long-tailed Cuckoo, Tuis and Brown Quail (c). Seen during crossing are White-fronted Tern, Black-billed Gull and Fluttering Shearwater; less common are Hutton's Shearwater, Grey-faced Petrels (nest on island). You can also lay on the beach and swim, walk the trails (some boarded), visit the lighthouse, take a tour with Ranger, and visit the gift shop and buy field guides etc.
Night Day 3 at Tiritiri Matangi bunkhouse
Night Day 4 at Bayview Manly B&B
Day 5: Whangaparaoa to Rotorua / Pureora via Firth of Thames
Driving Distances: from Whangaparaoa to Miranda is 138 kms (2 hours); from Miranda to Rotorua is 162 kms (2 hours); from Rotorua to Pureora is 81 kms (1 hour).
Logistics: Leave Whangaparaoa early morning after breakfast for Miranda. Miranda Shorebird Centre is a great shorebirding site along the western shores of the Firth of Thames, 65 kms southeast of Auckland Airport via Hwys 1 & 2. It lies just north of Miranda town or seven kms south of Kaiauaand. This should be a Saturday so there will be no rush-hour traffic though Auckland. The site is open 9-5 with information on current sightings and cabins at info@miranda-shorebird.org.nz or shorebird@xtra.co.nz . An hour or two should suffice in seeing the following specialties before driving onward to Rotorus via Hwys 2, 27 & 5 arriving around 3:00 pm. Drive on to Pureora, arriving around 5-6 pm.
Birds: The best birding is about 2 kms south of the "centre" at the mouth of the Taramaire River, indicated with a parking area next to indistinct orange poles. High tide is not necessary to see the specialties! The shingle bank, mudflats and pool harbour Wrybill (common here from January- August and reliably seen until mid-November), New Zealand Dotterel (best site), many migrating waders, while Variable & South Island Pied Oystercatchers and Black-billed Gull breed. Banded Rails frequent pool edges. One to four Little Terns are fairly reliable and roost on the isolated poles jutting out of the sea bed offshore from the blind while New Zealand Pipit occur along the Taramaire River. Also found are White-fronted Tern, Spotted Shag, Grey Teal, Australasian Shoveler, and Sacred (New Zealand) Kingfisher. The most reliable site for Australasian Bittern is Whangamarino Marsh which is 50 kms from here (also here in mangroves). If all specialties have not been recorded by the end of the trip, they could also be seen on the last day, as well as a visit to Whangamarino Marsh if the bittern has not been seen. See last day for directions to Whangamarino Marsh.
Birding at Rotorua: Birding will be a quick scope of Rotorua Lake for New Zealand Dabchick and New Zealand Scaup north of the Polynesian pools in Rotorua. This should take no longer than 20 minutes. Australasian Bittern & Fernbird are found at tiny Lake Ngahewa at the junction of Hwys 5 and 38, 20 kms south of Rotorua. The lake is highly-visible with a parking area. The thermal pools were unexciting to us.
Birds: En route to Pureora, well-signed Lake Whakamaru on the roadside has New Zealand Scaup, Grey Teal, Pacific Black (Grey) Duck, Australasian Shoveler, Paradise Shelduck, Sacred Kingfisher & Long-tailed Cuckoo. North Island Brown Kiwi occur in the northern sector of Pureora along Okahukura Road on the Rangitoto Range.
Night at Pureora Village Cabins
Day 6: Pureora Forest Park
Logistics & Birding: As the Forest Park is 81 kms southwest of Rotorua along Hwy 30 via Bennydale, and you must be there at dawn for the Kokako, overnighting at the park is the best option. Ask Betty Neill at the Pureora Visitors Centre for the latest info on the Kokako and get a trail map (online at http://www.doc.govt.nz - click community then Pureora ). NOTE: You must pack groceries in Rotorua as there is no food at the park. The closest restaurant is in Bennydale (20 KM) with a selection at Taupo (1 hour). You must have $20 in cash for the cabin. Although well-heated, you should also buy linen and / or blanket for the night as none are supplied at the cabin.
Night at Pureora Village Cabins
Day 7: Pureora to Ohakune / Raetihi
Birds: At sunrise be in Pureora Forest for the Kokako if not already seen at Tiritiri where only introduced. Best site for Morepork (5 am), Kokako, Fernbird, Long-tailed Cuckoo, Kaka & Yellow-fronted Parakeets is Plains Road. See trail map for clarification of directions: Take Barryville Road off Hwy 30 to Pikiariki Road (1.5 km), turning left and proceed 0.5 km to the track on the left called Plains Road. Drive 1.5 kms along Plains Road to the lawn-like parking area at the left-hand bend in the road just past the eucalyptus grove. In the bush to the left are two territorial males which sing incredible songs at dawn. The observation tower is a further 2 kms along Pikiariki Rd, turning left onto the short (signed for tower) Bismark Road. At the tower / parking area are Morepork (5 am), Kaka, Yellow-crowned Parakeet and Kokako (slim chance). The Totara Walk near the visitors centre produces Long-tailed Cuckoo, Rifleman & Whitehead. Along Perham's Avenue, which connects with Link Road, is a large clearing in the forest 1-2 kms from Barryville Road where New Zealand Falcon occur. Falcons are also seen near the bunkhouse and tower as well. Also found at Pureora are Tomtit, New Zealand Bellbird, Tui, New Zealand Pipit (along gravel roads). The largest trees in New Zealand grow in the park.
Driving Distance: from Pureora to Ohakune is 179 kms (2 hours) to Whakapapaiti Stream 167 kms (1 1/2 hrs).
Logistics, Sightseeing & Birds: Continue on to Whakapapaiti Stream for Blue Ducks during the early afternoon. Stop en route at the signed stream along Hwy 47, turning left off Hwy 4 and driving about 8 kms to the bridge. This site is about 30 kms from Ohakune. Take the footpath just east of the bridge to an overlook. The best site where three pairs of Blue Ducks are found is along the Manganuiateao River just before Ruatiti. Turn off Hwy 4, 4 kms north of Raetihi onto paved Ohura Road, crossing the river bridge at a fork after 13 kms and check the river visible from the road at 5 points along a 5 km stretch, especially just after Km 15 and just before Ruatiti. If not seen ,visit both sites early next morning. Ohakune is 23 kms from this Blue Duck site and 10 kms from Raetihi. Take North Island Brown Kiwi trip with Kerry Oates this evening. If you wish to try yourself, a pair of kiwis call 100 m up the Old Blyth Track at Km 7 of Ohakune Mountain Rd, which begins as Goldfinch Rd in the centre of town. This pair responds vocally to tapes but they seldom leave cover. One calls also at Km 4. The scenery is spectacular around Ohakune!
Night at Alpine Motel
Day 8: Ohakune to Wellington
Driving Distance: from Ohakune to Wellington is 291 kms (3 1/2 hours).
Logistics & Sightseeing: Leave Ohakune after Blue Ducks have been seen for Wellington (and ferry to Picton next day) via Hwys 49 & 1 arriving around 10 am. Visit Karori Wildlife Sanctuary especially if Little Spotted Kiwi is still needed (book from Rotorua for night tour only). Nocturnal two-hour tour for Little Spotted Kiwi (5 calls per hour at upper dam and 8 calls per hour at eastern pylon -Fletcher Trust Kiwi Trail). Also here are 18 Brown Teal which nest on forest streams and wetlands at head of lower & upper reservoir lakes; at viewing hides at the Contact Energy Wilderness Trail; and at the Keith Taylor Wetland Trail -unfortunately these ducks are pinioned. Take the short stroll along the main road up from the main entrance to the Keith Taylor Wetland Trail (just before you proceed through the locked gate) where one cheeky Weka does a curcuit from the road through the corner of the marsh. This is the only easy site for North Island Weka in New Zealand. New Zealand Robin, Saddleback, Tui, Tomtit, Kaka, New Caledonian Parakeet are expected in this reserve; Rifleman occur.
Night at Mana Motel
Day 9: Wellington to Picton via Interisland Ferry hence Kaikoura
Driving Distance: from Picton to Kaikoura is 161 kms (2 hours), arriving around 3 pm.
Logistics: Park the rental car in the car park at the terminal then drop the keys at Budget's office inside (see ferry -logistics) and board the Interisland Ferry from Wellington as a foot passenger on the 9:30 am sailing. Pick-up new car at Budget's office in Picton at the ferry terminal.
Birds and Sightseeing: Ferry has relatively few pelagics with Fluttering Shearwater, Fairy Prions, three albatross species -possibly Buller's, Common Diving-Petrel (winter), Soft-plumaged (rare) & Westland Petrels etc. As King Shags nest at White Rocks at the entrance to Marlborough Sounds, an occasional one is possible to see approaching Picton. The scenery is spectacular from the ferry and around Kaikoura. Check-in at Ocean Wings at 4 pm to see if trips go next day. Time to stroll around town looking at shops or birding at nearby Point Kean for Pied Shags, shorebirds, and pelagics from shore.
Night at Norfolk Pine Motel
Day 10: Kaikoura to Christchurch
Driving Distance: from Kaikoura to Christchurch is 200 kms (2 hours).
Logistics, Sightseeing & Birds: Take the 6:30 & 9:30 am pelagic trips with Ocean Wings (I km from motel) which only sails 4 miles offshore but produces 5 species of albatross (Buller's rare), Giant, Westland, Cape, Gray-faced & White-chinned Petrels, Fairy Prions, Hutton's Shearwater etc. Well worth the trip as you are unlikely to get seasick and the close viewing of the great albatrosses is exciting. Back in town around noon with time for lunch. Leave Kaikoura at I pm (to avoid the afternoon rush hour at Christchurch) and drive to the Blue Gum Lodge Motel. They are conveniently located on Hwy I in a rural setting halfway between Templeton and Rolleston. En route look for Cape Barren Geese in grassy fields along Hwy I at well-signed St. Anne's Lagoon, 4 kms north of Cheviot (look 0.2 kms past St. Anne's on right for farm pond that is hidden below in valley hills -walk Hwy I's shoulder to view).
Night at Blue Gum Lodge Motel
Days 11-12: Blue Gum Motel to Twizel
Driving Distance: from Blue Gum to Twizel is 300 kms (3 hours).
Logistics: Leave Blue Gum very early for Twizel, arriving around 9 am. If the Black Stilt is seen on arrival of Day 11 or early on Day 12 take the short, scenic drive to Mt Cook National Park. Refer to map at http://www.twizel.com.
Birds: The best site recently for Black Stilt is the Tasman River Delta along Hwy 80 as you proceed towards Mt Cook Village. This site is viewed from the road bend 0.2 km past the airfield at Glentanner. Park at the second farm road beyond the airfield (towards Mt. Cook) (the first has a corral). Walk through the locked gate, keeping right and walk about 1 1/2 kms along the river. Two feed here where it enters Lake Pukaki. Proceed to Mt Cook and walk the forest trail where Rifleman, Tomtits and New Zealand Bellbirds are common. As Rock Wren have been difficult at Homer Tunnel, walk the upper trails at Mt Cook where Kea are also found. Keas often inspect garbage cans around the Hermatage Hotel at dawn and dusk. Watch constantly for New Zealand Falcons especially along gravel Hooker Valley Road which branches off Hwy 80 at the village and en route along Hwy 80.
Other Black Stilt sites include: (Site b) An ocassional wild bird is seen by paying $12.50 NZ to view them from a blind in the reserve by advance booking (03) 435-0802; Oct-March daily from 10:30 am & 2 pm; April-Sept; Mon-Fri 10:30 am. The hides are on Wairepo Road, 3 kms south of Twizel via Hwy 8. Exit left from Twizel at the gravel road immediately before the Ohau Dam -then an immediate right downhill to their entrance on the left where you will see their only sign. If you proceed along this gravel road at the edge of their property, scope the various wetlands (including those on their property) that harbour many hybrids; the Ohua River is also along this road on the opposing side and worth checking. Double-banded Plover are abundant here. (Site c) Turn left (east) onto the paved road 3.5 kms south of Twizel just beyond the Ohua River Dam which is signed for Lake Benmore. You will soon see a sign stating the road is private, use at your own risk. Drive this road which follows a canal and passes two power stations which have huge pipes to allow water through generators. Fifty Black-fronted Terns nest at these hydro-electric dams. At the second station it appears that the road ends but it continues between the station building and pipes. Approaching the second station, do not turn right onto the road signed "Falstone" or right onto other paved roads here, but proceed between the power station and pipes. The exact distance is 11 kms from Hwy 8 and the length is paved. Immediately past the second station ia a rough gravel road on the right. The road can be driven with a passenger car but use caution! It begins near a single-strand chain fence. Drive down a slight grade towards the trees, keeping right after 0.5 kms, then left after 0.2 kms to an information sign about braided river systems (0.1 km). At the sign keep right following the 4WD road edged with white-painted rocks. You will soon see the braided river. Keep right to avoid fording the river and drive or walk adjacent to the braided river complex approximately 2-3 kms to the northwest end of Lake Benmore. Stilts occur near the river mouth at the lake in winter. (Site d) Glen Lyon Road leads west from Twizel's northern perimiter to the town of Glenlyon. It leads to a low water bridge and to a pool on the Twizel River system, rarely with Black Stilts. (Site e) Black Stilt are found 3 km north (and south) of Omarama from Hwy 8 along the Ahuriri River Delta, 700 meters from the road or may also be seen from the road where the stilts have been seen flying overhead; Black-fronted Terns and Wrybills are here as well. (Site f) Take McGregor Road northwards from Hwy 8 along the west side of Lake Tekapo almost to its end, walk the wooden bridge over the Cass River and take the track through the gate onto the Cass River delta. The stilts and Wrybill nest on the shingle river bed where Cass River enters Lake Tekapo. Common Redpolls, New Zealand Pipit, Grey Teal, White-faced Heron, South Island Pied Oystercatcher & Pied Stilt are found in the Twizel area.
2 Nights at the High Country Lodge
Day 13: Twizel to Dunedin
Driving Distance: from Twizel to Dunedin is 260 kms (3 hours).
Logistics: Leave Twizel very early for Dunedin (if stilt has been seen), arriving around 9 am. The Otago Peninsula has the Bayways Motel in Portobello, a fifteen minute drive to the penguins and albatross centre. They also have a self-contained cottage -Pixies Place -which comes highly-recommended, that rests less than one km between Penguin Place and Taiaroa Head along Harrington Point Road. This, and Pilgrim Cottage, were my favourite accommodations in New Zealand with views of the sea and Little Blue Penguins in the backyard. Maps of Otago Peninsula with locations at page 659 of the Rough Guide.
Sightseeing & Birds: With only four birds to see there is a whole day to sightsee at the Royal Albatross colony at Taiaroa Head, which is located 33 kms north of Dunedin on the Otago Peninsula. The albatross are seen year-round, but the main viewing area is closed to Nov 23. The centre is open during May-Sept from 10 am to 5 pm & Oct-April 9 am to 8 pm; reservations are not needed. There is an excellent cafe at the centre where all meals should be eaten. Albatrosses circle overhead while you dine, especially around 4 pm. Spotted Shags nest at Taiaroa Head, seen from the cliffs just past the car park at the Albatross Centre. Stewart Island Shags fly by here, but their colony and the nesting albatross's are seen with a scope from the road up to the centre. Little Blue's are visible at a burrow outside the cafe at the fence edge -look for nesting boxes and a hole with a pipe at its entrance. Watch for Ciril Buntings on lawn areas. Take the last guided tour at 6:45 pm at Penguin Place to view the Yellow-eyed Penguins (reservations need 2 days notice). Penguin Place has 1 1/2 hour tours every 30 rnin from 10:15 to dusk (7:15- 10:15 am by appointment). Walk through "tunnels" to view the penguins at their nest burrows. They are guaranteed from mid-Aug to March, but the last hours of daylight are best. Yellow-eyed Penguins have 3 week-old chicks in mid-November and the colony is large enough to ensure most adults are present. Visit the Little Blue Penguins at dusk (9:30 pm) at Pilot's Beach immediately before the albatross centre.
Night at Pixies Place
Day 14: Dunedin to Invercargill
Driving Distance: 217 kms (2 1/2 hours) from Dunedin to Invercargill. Driving distance: 35 kms (20 min) Invercargill to Bluff.
Logistics: Leave Dunedin early morning to visit the Sinclair Wetlands 50 kms south of Dunedin along Hwy 1 en route to Invercargill. Drive through Brighton to Lake Waihola -Henley area. From the "Sinclair Wetlands -13 kms" sign on Highway 1, proceed west (right) on the gravel road, turning south (left) on Clarendon Road towards Taieri (follow signs west, south, and east). The huge marsh will come into view on your left just when you think your lost. Watch for Ciril Buntings en route. Have breakfast at the "Heart & Soul" restaurant in Balclutha, and if time allows, drive scenic Hwy 92. Lodge at Invercargill, with a better selection of motels than Bluff, before catching the ferry from Bluff to Stewart Island next morning.
Birds: Must remain at Sinclair Wetlands until the Fernbird is found along first stretch of trail through marsh (two-minute walk from car) and Ciril Buntings are found along Clarendon Road. Also good for Australasian Bittern and possible Spotless Crake. Pause, if time allows, to search for the very scarce Yellowhead at Wisp Campground within Catlins Forest Park along "Catlin River Walk" (signed from Hwy 92) or proceed to Waitona Lagoon near Fortrose to look for Red-necked Stints and Terek Sandpipers.
Night at Moana Court Motel
Days 15-17: Bluff to Stewart Island / Oban
Logistics: Make all reservations prior to leaving home for Stewart Island. After storing your rental car at the Cambelltown Passenger Service
ferry terminal shed (at least 9 am), board the 9:30 am Foveaux Express cataraman ferry from Bluff to Stewart Island. Ferry to island does not take cars which are not needed anyway. Fair pelagic birding from ferry with Common Diving-Petrels, Fairy Prion, Shy Albatross and an ocassional Buller's Albatross (seen with ease from mid-Dec). There are 46 accommodations available around Oban, a few are pictured at http://www.stewartisland.co.nz. Try the South Sea Hotel southsea@stewart-island.co.nz $60-80, motel units $120. Visa, Book 8 months ahead at http://www.stewart-island.co.nz(the pub is noisy so request a quiet room). We booked Phillip Smith's Pilgrim Cottage with it's coal-burning stove and beautiful wooden-decor. Pilgrim Cottage is a 5 minute walk to restaurants, shops and ferry docks. Bruce Story also has nice rooms at his home for $100-120. Both Phillip and Bruce take Visa for all of their business. Phone from Oban for 1:30 or 2:45 pm cruise on Milford Sound for 1:40 hour trip if Fiordland Crested Penguin has not been seen.
Sightseeing & Birds: That evening take Bravo Adventure Cruises Kiwi Tour from Oban with Phillip Smith aboard his boat (if one that day as they are weather related) for Southern Tokoeka, a possible split from Brown Kiwi. Fernbirds at kiwi site as well. The next day (if possible) take pelagic trip aboard the Thorfinn with Bruce Story for Fiordland Crested Penguin, Stewart Island Shags, Buller's Albatross, Broad-billed Prion, Fairy Prion & Common Diving-Petrel etc. The penguins now nest in small numbers near Oban and sit on rocks not far from the docks in north part of Halfmoon Bay. You should see two from the ferry. Keep to the right side of the ferry scanning the closest point that has a large square-shaped boulder; two sit on rocks about ten feet above water line. The Thorfinn Charters full-day trip also takes you to Ulva Island, however, you can go the following day via water taxi from Golden Bay which is a l/2 km walk or inexpensive taxi ride (219-1456) from the hotel. The water taxi costs $20 NZ return for the 15 min. crossing; arrange pick-up. On Ulva Isle are tame Weka, New Zealand Brown Creeper (c), Kaka, New Caledonian & Yellow-crowned Parakeets, Rifleman, Tomtit, NZ Bellbird, NZ Pigeon and Tui. As you leave the water taxi, walk 3 minutes to the second path on the left, then immediately left again. In this corner are introduced South Island Saddleback, South Island Robin & Yellowhead. All of Ulva's specialities can be seen in only one hour. Walk 3 kms to Acker's Point, especially when winds are high. Shy Albatross and Little Blue Penguins are abundant and Mottled Petrels, Giant Petrel, Brown Skua and Fiordland Crested Penguin are possible. Buller's Albatross are possible and occur regularly during heavy winds from mid-December. Fairy Prions nest at the point and arrive after dark. You should enjoy boat trips, scenery, walks and shops in town. Note: The boat trip for the kiwi leaves at sunset and takes 45 minutes each way. There will be a 1.5 to 2 kms walk through the bush in the dark- bring a flashlight. Wear warm clothing and sturdy footwear. Diane will meet you at ferry with black wagon licence C KIWI. To arrange kiwi trip phone Phillip on arrival to Oban at 219-1144. Note also that boat trips with both Phillip and Bruce are weather-related and that the day you book can be cancelled; it is imperative that you allow 3 days on the island to increase you chances of getting both boat trips; Phillip and Bruce will set aside 3 days for you!
3 nights at Pilgrim Cottage
Days 18-20: Stewart Island to Te Anau
Driving Distances: from Bluff to Te Anau is 153 km (2 hours); from Te Anau to Milford Sound is 117 kms (I 1/2 hours).
Logistics: Leave Stewart Island on the 8 am ferry on Day 18. Bird a ful12 1/2 days in Eglington Valley. Take paved Hwy 94 to Milford Sound from Te Anau. There isn't any food between Te Anau and Milford Sound so pack lunches. The rare possibility of snow on the road near the Homer Tunnel in late Nov will require the rental of chains, available in Te Anau at gas stations at $25. Many accommodations are available in Te Anau with motor park cabins around $40 for those on a budget.
Birds & Sightseeing: En route to Te Anau, look for Little Owls near Winton where there are dense hedges. The one-mile long Lake Gunn Trail is within the Eglington Valley near Cascade Creek, 80 kms (I hour) north of Te Anau. The trail passes through moss-covered beech forest where Yellowheads once whistled from the tree tops and New Zealand Falcon, Tomtit, Rifleman and Yellow-crowned Parakeet are found. The beech forest at Knob's Flat also has same species, including the now rare Yellowhead and Rifleman. Proceed on Hwy 94 towards Milford Sound. Blue Duck are found along the Hollyford River just before the Homer Tunnel (101 kms). At the Te Anau side of the tunnel among rocks are Keas and Rock Wrens. The wren was not found during Nov 2003. Look for the wren along a short circular trail "Alpine Garden Walk" and at the signed Gertrude Saddle Track about 0.4 kms back towards Lake Gunn. New Zealand Pipits are common here. It is sixteen kms to Milford Sound along Hollyford branch of Hwy 94 from the tunnel. This drive and subsequent cruise is not necessary if Oban produces the penguin. Take the 1:30 or 2:45 pm trip with Mitre Peak, Red Boat or Real Journeys Cruise for Fiordland Crested Penguin. Milford Sound forest has Tomtit, New Zealand Robin & New Zealand Brown Creeper. With only a few birds to see, there will be time to view the spectacular scenery and beautiful forests, especially if the Yellowhead and penguin have been seen at Oban.
3 nights at Te Anau Holiday Park
Day 21: Te Anau to Punakaiki
Driving Distance: from Te Anau to Haast Pass is 260 kms (3 hours); from Haast Pass to Monro Beach is 60 kms (1 hour).; from Monro Beach to Punakaiki is 343 kms (5 hours).
Birding & Logistics: Loop from Te Anau to Picton via west coast for Yellowheads, Fiordland Crested Penguin and Great Spotted Kiwi. Note: The best site for Yellowheads is now Haast Pass along the Bridal Track at Davis Flats. Leave Te Anau very early following Hwy 94 to Hwy 6, through Queenston to the Yellowhead site at Haast Pass, arriving about 9 am. Also here are Rifleman, New Zealand Creeper and Yellow-crowned Parakeet. After finding the Yellowheads, leave around 11 am, arriving at Monro Beach around noon. If the penguins are still required you must stay at the beach until dusk. If so, stay at Lake Paringa Motels 18 kms further north at Lake Paringa. Note that this will add a day to your itinerary. Take the Monro Beach Walk for penguins which is just 5 kms beyond Knights Point The walk is 5 kms or 90 minutes return through lovely forest to the beach where they breed (July-Dec). If the penguins have been seen, continue to Punakaiki and Paparoa National Park.
Birding & Logistics: There are several motels in Punakaiki but Punakaiki Cottage Motels are cheapest at $90-120. However, Punakaiki Beach Hostel has motel units for $70-90. Eating options are limited. The Great Spotted Kiwi occurs along Bullock's Creek Road, one km north of the Punakaiki Motor Camp. Take this road 6.2 kms to a locked gate (at car park at end of Bullock Creek Road). To the right of the gate is a rough camping site. Walk into the forest from the gate and turn right at the first junction and follow the pool. From the pool, turn left and start listening for the kiwi. Be aware of holes in the ground! This site is along the Bullock Creek track in Paparoa Forest east of Hwy 6. Exerp from trip report: "We walked up to the fork, turned right before gate and heard one calling to left"
Night at Punakaiki Beach Hotel
Day 22: Punakaiki to Kaikoura then on to Picton
Driving Distance: from Punakaiki to Kaikoura via Hwys 6, 69, 7 & 1 (about 375 kms- 5 1/2 hours).
Driving Distance: from Kaikoura to Picton is 161 kms (2 hours).
Logistics: Leave Punakaiki very early in the morning and take the 1:30 pm Ocean Wings pelagic trip. Continue to Picton at 4:30 pm, arriving at 6:30 pm.
Night at Americano Motor Inn
Day 23: Picton
Logistics, Sightseeing & Birds: Take 8:45 am boat trip for King Shag with Dolphin Watch Marlborough. The boat leaves 5 min walk from ferry terminal which is 0.3 km from the Americano Motor Inn (see Picton map in Rough Guide for office location). King Shags nest at White Rocks at the entrance to Marlborough Sounds and stay within 24 kms of their nesting areas. If the bird trip is a "Birdwatcher's Special" they visit White Rocks and then Motuara Island where South Island Saddleback are seen. Sightsee rest of the day, look for Ciril Buntings around Seddon, then drop the rental car in the late afternoon for the 5:30 am sailing aboard the Interisland Ferry next day. The Budget office is located at the ferry terminal.
Night at Americano Motor Inn
Days 24-25: Picton to Miranda / Whitianga
Driving Distance: from Wellington to Miranda via Highway 1 is 638 kms (8 hours with one stop).
Driving Distance: from Miranda to Whitianga via Highways 25 & 25B is 124 kms (1 1/2 hours). .
Logistics: Take the 5:30 am sailing aboard the Interisland Ferry, arriving in Wellington at 8:30 am. Pick up rental car. Look briefly for New Zealand Pipit along Hwy 1 (called the Desert Road within Mt Tongariro NP) en route. Back at Miranda by 5 pm with two nights at the Miranda bunkhouse. The most reliable site for Australasian Bittern is Whangamarino Marsh which is 50 kms from here (also here in mangroves). If all specialties have been recorded by the end of the trip you can just casually bird here. To reach Whangamarino Marsh from Miranda, drive about 6 kms south to Hwy 2, turn right and continue 35 kms to Hwy 1 at Pokeno. Turn south (left) onto Hwy 1 and turn left after about 8 kms (at termination of freeway) onto a well-signed street "Island Block -to Meremere" which is surrounded by countryside. Search anywhere along this road. At a closed gate, walk along the gravel road until you reach Pilon 73 and walk the short boardwalk which extends into the marsh.
On Day 25 take a two-hour boat tour from Whitianga for Pycroft's Petrel with Catch or Star Trek Charters or possibly a longer trip with Wrybill Birding Tours if they have a sheduled pelagic trip for this day. Up to 200 Pycroft's Petrels are seen regularly during Nov-Dec in the waters around Red Mercury Island which is only 50 minutes at 20 knots from Whitianga harbour. The look-alike Cook's Petrel which is quite rare can also be observed here. Also possible are Yellow-nosed Albatross, Fluttering & Little Shearwaters, Black & Grey-faced Petrels Common Diving-Petrel, Fairy Prion, and White-faced Storm-Petrel. The newly-discovered New Zealand Storm-Petrel (considered a subspecies of Wilson's by most authorities) is a remote possibility if you take a pre-arranged trip with Wrybill Tours near Little Barrier Island.
2 nights at Miranda bunkhouse
Day 26: Miranda to Auckland airport
Logistics: Leave Miranda after breakfast for Auckland Airport, a 65 km (I hour) drive. Flight on NZ Air from Auckland early afternoon to
Vancouver arriving at airport with flight onward to Victoria.
night at home
Logistics
ø non-smoking
Air NZ: Air Canada flight from Victoria to Vancouver at 12:30 pm. Air NZ departs Vancouver at 4:15 pm, arriving in LA at 6:33 pm. Depart LA on NZ flight at 9:45 pm, arriving in Auckland at 7:30 am. NZ flight from Auckland at 12:50 pm through Hawaii, arriving at Vancouver at 7:30 pm. Air Canada flight to Victoria leaves Vancouver at 9:30 pm. NOTE: The price of airfare on page 1 includes a stopover in Hawaii. See pages 1 and 2 for further information.
Budget Car Rental: Info at reservations@budget.co.nz Reserved at http:llwww.budget.co.nz. In Canada http://www.budget.co.nz or 1-800-268-8900. Quote is cheapest automatic (compact) from Auckland / Auckland. Give ferry crossing date & times to Budget when picking up car at Auckland. See under Interislander ferry. We were quoted (with all taxes in Cdn with additional $13.33 daily insurance) $1,833.25 for 25 days. Be sure to ask for the confirmation number when reserving.
ø Kauri Coast Holiday Park: Trounson Park Road 0800-807-200 or 09-439-0621 kauricoast.top10@xtra.co.nz Motel units are $70-90 standard cabins are under $50 per room. Two-hour guided night walks for N. I. Brown Kiwi (80% chance) $15 from the Holiday Park.
ø Bayview Manly B&B: is at 1 Beach Road, 5 minutes from Gulf Harbour and can be booked at http://www.bayview-manly.co.nz e-mail bayviewmanly@xtra.co.nz $125 NZ ($76 Cdn) double nightly. They take Visa. Book before & after returning from Tiritiri Matangi.
Fuller's Gulf Island Ferries: Leaves 9:45 am from Whangaparaoa (pier Z) returning from Tiritiri Matangi at 3:30 pm (09-424-5561) or 367-9111. Timetables at http://www.fullers.co.nz . Book via e-mail with credit card at enquiries@fullersakl.co.nz. Ferry to Tiritiri Matangi leaves only on Thurs, Fri, Sat. & Sun. (Check for cancellations at 0800-326-824 or 924 after 7 am). $25 NZ each return.
ø Tiritiri Matangi: Must be booked 6 months in advance especially for weekends. Reservations are with the Ranger (09) 479-4490 or at tiritirimatangifb@doc.govt.nz Contact Barbara Walters. See website http://www.123.co.nz/tiri/default.htm . with map, shopping etc. Costs $20 each plus $10 each for linen = $60 NZ. Visa accepted.
Pureora Village Cabins: 7 rooms, 3 single units sleeping two. Fair rooms with heater, kitchenette, hot showers & washrooms shared. No Visa, book a month prior. Take cash & New Zealand bank cheques only ($20 double). Contact Betty Neill: bneill@doc.govt.nz [or pureorafc@doc.govt.nz ]. No restaurants or linen, buy grocerys & linen and / or blanket in Rotorua. Trail map on-line at http://www.doc.govt.nz/Community/001~For-Schools/003~Field-Trips/004~Waikato/Pureora-Forest-Park/004~Facilities.asp or http://www.doc.govt.nz/index.html -click community, then Pureora facilities.
Kerry Oats: N.I .Brown Kiwi tour $35 NZ each (cash only) Whakamanu Wildlife Management, Box 146, Ohakune (06) 385-9505. Book for evening at whakamanu@actrix.co.nz Will pick-up at motel. Excellent chance of seeing the kiwi with Kerry.
ø Alpine Motel: Motel in Ohakune 385-8758 $85 NZ double http://www.alpinemotel.co.nz/bookings/book.html;alpine.motel@xtra.co.nz. Take Visa, book a month ahead.
ø Mana Motel: 0800-866-262 mana.motel@xtra.co.nz, 41 Mana Esplanade, Paremata, directly off Hwy 1, 15 minutes (15 kms) before ferry terminal. Last motel before city with restaurants, including a McDonald's, nearby. Non-smoking rooms $98 NZ. They take Visa. Reserve 3 months ahead at http://www.manamotel.co.nz; No transfers to ferry.
Karori Wildlife Sanctuary: Reservations only needed for night tours (04) 920-9200; bookings@sanctuary.org.nz;
http://www.sanctuary.org.nz; info at kwst@sanctuary.org.nz. $6 each, must book $15 nocturnal two-hour tour for Little Spotted Kiwi. At Wellington western city limits (2 kms away) at end of Waiapu Rd. Follow Hwy 1 which becomes Glenmore St, turn left at the Kelburn Viaduct mini roundabout & go through the Karoni Tunnel, then immediately left onto Waiapu Rd. (map at their website). Free parking. Hours open are: Mon-Fri 10-4, Sat-Sun 10-5.
Interisland Ferry: (Interislander) Five ferrys daily from Wellington to Picton. Three-hour trip one-way. Book 6 months in advance. Book 9:30 am sailing from Wellington & 5:30 am sailing from Picton: Terminal 0800-802-802. Take Visa. online booking through http://www.interislandlinebookings.co.nz/default.asp Questions about booking: bookings@interislandline.co.nz - No discounts for those booking outside New Zealand so prices are $52 NZ each one-way Note: that many major car rental companies including. Budget do not allow cars on ferry and car exchange occurs at both ferry terminals picking up & dropping off a new car at the opposite port Budget has offices at Wellington (04) 473-7588 & Picton ferry terminals (03) 573-6081. Provide crossing date & times
to Budget via e-mail and when picking up car at Auckland (48 hours notice required). If their office is not open early, park the car and drop the keys in the keydrop in the arrivals offices in the Interislander terminal.
ø Americano Motor Inn: is 1/2 km from Picton ferry docks, $95 NZ Visa. 573-6398, americano@xtra.co.nz, 32 High St. Book 1 month ahead at http://www.americano.co.nz/ with credit card #. Pool, restaurant.
Dolphin Watch Marlborough: to view King Shags which nest at Duffer's Reef, White & Trios Rocks, Bluemine & Long Isles & Beef Island at the entrance to South Harbour in Marlborough Sounds N.P. (outer islands) staying within 24 kms of nest area. From Picton book Dolphin Watch Marlborough for the 8:45 am trip two months ahead at dolphin.marlborough@xtra.co.nz or tel: 573-8040. They have two trips at 8:45 am & 1:45 pm at $58 or $65 for the birder's special; they take VISA. Boat leaves 5 min. walk from ferry terminal. See Picton map in Rough Guide for office location. Slim chance of seeing the shag from the ferry approaching Picton!
Ocean Wings: 58 West End, Kaikoura (03) 319-6777 or 0 800 733-365 info@oceanwings.co.nz or jenny@dolphin.co.nz. Three daily pelagic trips 6:30 & 9:30 am, 1:30 pm of 2 hours duration. Visa $60NZ. Not far off-shore, but very productive. http://www.oceanwings.co.nz
ø Norfolk Pine Motel: 124 Esplanade, Kaikoura (03) 319-6405. Book well-ahead at http://www.norfolkpine.co.nz
& give credit card
number & expiration. norfolkpine@xtra.co.nz, Visa $90NZ.
ø Blue Gum Lodge Motel: (3) 347-8658 bluegum@attglobal.net Book at http://www.nzmotels.co.nz/blue.gum/index.html. Studio unit $75 double with taxes, all ammenities, Visa. Located on Hwy 1 in rural setting halfway between Templeton and Rolleston, 17 kms south of Christchurch.
High Country Lodge: Twizel; has beautiful motel units $60, restaurant, Visa. Reserve at erin.hchl@xtra.co.nz . Must book newest motel unit at $80 to get "we discourage smoking" rooms which we found to be smoke-free.
ø Bayways Motel: 697 Highcliff Road, Portobello (03) 478-0181 bayways@clear.net.nz $85; Visa. On Otago Peninsula near Dunedin, a fifteen minute drive to Penguin Place & Albatross Centre. Book their self-contained cottage "Pixies Place" with ocean views, TV and kitchenette for $80. All rooms are smoke-free. Get the combination lock number at motel and directions. Pixi's is 10 kms from the motel on Harrington Point Road.
Penguin Place: (03) 478-0286 http://www.penguin-place.co.nz. Book for the 6:45 pm tour to see Yellow-eyed Penguins at penguin.place@clear.net.nz. The charge is $30 each NZ for the guided tour (VISA. Guaranteed, but last 3 hours of day best -last at 6:45 pm- book only 2 days ahead). Well-signed on Harington Point Road about 2 kms before reaching the Albatross Centre.
Royal Albatross Centre: at Taiaroa Head (03) 478-0499 reservations@albatross.org.nz or shirley@albatross.org.nz. Open daily Oct- Apr 9am- 8pm. Free or $18 (VISA) for tour ( book 2 days ahead). However, main viewing area is closed mid-Nov but albatrosses are reliably seen flying past when no booking required or seen on their nests from the road in.
ø Moana Court Motel: 217-8443, 554 Tay St, Invercargill. Book at moanac@southnet.co.nz. Smoke-free rooms are $85 NZ double, Visa.
Foveaux Express: Stewart Island Marine catamaran 03-212-7660 info@foveauxexpress.co.nz
. Online reservations at http://foveauxexpress.proofing.wired.co.nz/book-now/bookingform.asp. Leaves Bluff and docks in Oban (Stewart Island). $84 NZ return each with tax. Visa. Leaves Bluff at 9:30 am & 5 pm (once on Sunday at 5 pm). One-hour to cross (100 seats). Leaves Half moon Bay at 8 am & 3:30
pm. Vehicle storage provided in shed at Bluff with Cambelltown Passenger Service wiki@southnet.co.nz. (or office in the ferry terminal cps.bluff@southnet.co.nz) (03) 212-7404. $5 NZ daily. No reservations required, be there at least 9 am. Recommended length of stay on the island is three nights.
Bravo Adventure Cruises: Brown Kiwi Tours from Oban (Stewart Island) with Phillip Smith aboard his 50' new boat. Book six months in advance at 03-219-1144 stewartislandfc@doc.govt.nz. The boat to the kiwi site only goes every other night $70 each. Visa for all services. philldismith@xtra.co.nz. To arrange kiwi trip phone Phillip on arrival to Oban at 219-1144. Phillip also arranges $450 half-day pelagic trips.
Thortinn Charters: (03) 219-1210 info@thorfinn.co.nz (may contact BJ McKay) Bruce Story has 30' boat Thorfinn $50 NZ half $80 NZ full-day (9am-5pm) each. VISA. Website: http://www.thorfinn.co.nz Full-day charter required for pelagics and trip to Ulva Isle. Book, but no reservations until arrival at Oban (trip sheduled to number of reservations & weather and could possibly not go). I had extreme difficulty arranging a trip with Bruce as he only returned my phone call once while staying in Oban.
ø Pilgrim Cottage:Phillip Smith's "Pilgrim Cottage" is booked at philldismith@xtra.co.nz. Take Visa. The cottage is a 5 minute walk
from restaurants and the dock for $85 NZ a couple per night. Shower over bath tub, TV, kitchenette, and a coal-burning stove you must stoke to keep warm. Free transfers to 1 from ferry. Diane will meet you at the ferry with black wagon licence C KIWI.
ø Te Anau Holiday Park: Manapuri Street, 1 km south of centre. Non-smoking motel units for $89 NZ with lake views. Take Visa. Clean, unassuming rooms with TV and kitchenette. Reserve four months ahead at lakeside.teanau@xtra.co.nz or (03) 249-7436.
Mitre Peak, Red Boat or Real Journeys Cruises: Last minute booking for Fiordland Crestland Penguin at Milford Sound if missed at Oban. Reserve 1:30 or 2:45 pm trip. Ninty-min. drive gets you back to Te Anau at 5 or 6 pm. Any trip productive for penguins but all don't go out of their way to view them. http://www.mitrepeak.com, http://www.new-zealand.com/RedBoats/bookings.html or reservations@realjourneys.co.nz Book Day 19 for 2:45 or 1:30 pm cruise (check-in 20 minutes earlier). Any trip is semi-productive but only nature cruises go out of way to see the penguins. The 117 kms from Te Anau to Milford Sound takes 1 1/2 hours. Mitre Peak 0800- 744-633 or 64-03-249-8110 info@mitrepeak.com $49 for 1:40 hrs (2:45 & 4:30) or $56 (9:55 am) or $60 (12:20 noon) for 2 hrs. Red Boat rbinfo@redboats.co.nz [9 & 11 am 3pm 1:45 hrs $46] [1:30 1:45 hrs $58] [10:30 am 12:25 & 3 pm 2:45 hrs $65]. Fiordland
Travel (Real Journeys as of Oct) [11 am 3 pm 1:40 hrs $47] [1 pm 1:40 hrs $60] nature cruises [10:45 2:30 hrs $60] [12:30 & 1:30 pm 2:30 hrs $57] small boat [10 am 2:15 $47] [12:45 2:30 hrs $60].
Lake Paringa Motels: Drive 18 kms north of Monro Beach to Lake Paringa 03-751-0894 studios are $70-90. If penguins seen before dusk continue to Punakaiki and Paparoa National Park.
Punakaiki Cottage Motels: Mable Street 03-731-1008 are cheapest at $90-120. There are several motels in Punakaiki however,
Punakaiki Beach Hostel: Webb Street 0800-726-225 punakaiki.beachhostel@xtra.co.nz has motel units for $70-90. Eating
options are limited.
ø Miranda park cabins $45 NZ for two in twin beds (35 min to airport) (09) 232-2781 shorebird@xtra.co.nz. Visa? Others include Bay View Hotel 09-232-2717; Kaiaua Motor Camp 09-232-2712 cabins under $40. Miranda Holiday Park cabins $80-100.
Wrybill Birding Tours Only pre-arranged pelagic trips about once every three months (Sept, Nov, Jan/Feb). For shedules visit http://www.wrybill-tours.com or write info@wrybill-tours.com
Star Trek Charter Boat Birdwatching tours ($60 NZ each) depart Whitianga at 10:30 am onward. For shedules and departures tel: (07) 866-0555 or write Maurry Martin, Box 288 Whitianga. Other options for boat rental can be found at
http://www.whitianga.co.nz/fishing.html such as Catch Charters, http://www.fishdive.co.nz; tel: (07) 866-5102;
peter.mackie@xtra.co.nz, who has half-day charters from Whitianga for $300 for 1-4 persons, ideal for a small group. It only takes 1 1/2 hours to get to and back from Pycroft Petrel waters leaving time for other pelagics.
ENDEMICS & NEW ZEALAND SPECIALTIES
(endemics numbered) (not included: many Australasian species, migrant shorebirds and pelagics & vagrants).
